There are some very popular cenotes not far from Tulum on the way to the Coba ruins on Hwy. 109, and then there are some less popular but highly recommended ones as well. Cenote Calavera is one of the less popular but pretty cool (literally and figuratively) cenotes along this route. Average cenote water temperatures are around 77 degrees Fahrenheit, this one hovers around 76 degrees–a refreshing change from the heat and humidity of this part of Mexico.
This cenote has two monikers, so don’t be surprised if people refer to it as the “Temple of Doom” or the “skull cenote” (the Spanish word calavera means skull in English). Cenote Calavera got its nicknames by the view from swimming inside the cenote–there are two smaller ceiling holes (the eyes of the skull) and a larger hole for the skull’s “mouth”. The light coming in from outside the cenote puts these ceiling holes in stark relief from the darkness of the interior thus creating a skull-like effect.
While Cenote Calavera offers a small parking lot alongside Hwy. 109, it is a short walk to the cenote entrance, then another few minutes’ walk to the cenote openings. This cenote is somewhat different in that one can only access the interior by going down a ladder or by jumping into it from a height of about eight to ten feet. There is a larger hole which has the ladder and a rope swing, while another much smaller hole is also available from which to jump–a much tighter area of access, but challenging in its own way (there is a small sign showing people where to jump into the smaller ceiling hole). Visitors to this cenote should know how to swim or have access to a flotation vest if not a good swimmer since there are only the ladder and rope swing to hang onto if one gets tired treading water.
Cenote Calavera has limited amenities–no lockers, no restaurants, and no rental equipment available, so bring plenty of water and snacks. There are bathrooms and picnic tables, however. It is recommended to bring water shoes since the area surrounding the ceiling holes is rocky. Also, since there are no lockers I would think about bringing a lockable bag to store your equipment/belongings (I always bring my Kyss bag on beach vacations so I don’t have to worry about my stuff getting stolen while I’m in the water). If you bring a lockable bag like a Kyss bag, there are objects smaller in diameter near the cenote openings which will work nicely with the length of chain available in such products.
Cenote Calavera is an excellent choice for swimmers; snorkeling is not great here but certainly doable since there are many smaller fish swimming around. This cenote is also popular with cave divers since it offers an excellent chance to observe the concept of “halocline” (where freshwater meets seawater creating stunning visual effects/color changes).
How to get to Cenote Calavera? Like other cenotes located along the road to Coba, it is easier to get here if you are close to Tulum. Rent a bicycle in Tulum (about a 25 min. ride), hire a taxi and have the driver wait for you, hire a car with a driver if possible from where you are staying (ask at Guest Services), take a colectivo from Tulum (route from Tulum to Coba) but this is more unreliable since colectivos have no real schedules–they leave when they are full and collect people on the roadway only if they are passing by the area, or rent a car.
Below is a video of this cenote; while it is in Spanish, it does give one a good idea of what this cenote is like both inside and outside. What do you think, would you visit here?